Friday, April 23, 2010

Dubrovnik

If there is such a thing as a classic Mediterranean look for villages around this sea, Dubrovnik would have to be a good example. From the ship, especially as we approached yesterday, the red tile roofs, stucco structures, palm trees, and rugged mountain backdrops were enchanting. The ride on our tour bus to the old town area of Dubrovnik added to these impressions—the city is very, very clean, free of litter, and well cared for. The graffiti we saw on so many public and private buildings all over Rome and in other areas of Italy was disappointing, but here in Dubrovnik there was none of that. The city and regions nearby are a popular tourist destination, and there are several very large hotels and beach areas. Weather is moderate all year and quite warm in the summer. When we were reminded that the Serbs had shelled this city in 1992, it was rather shocking. Some evidence of the damage still exists. These attacks occurred when the former Yugoslavia began to separate into the several independent countries that now make up the region and war broke out between individual states and ethnic groups.

An amazing wall, part of which follows the sea, surrounds the old town part of Dubrovnik. Portions of the wall date back to the 12th century. One can walk the circumference of the city along the top of this wall. We did not have the time to do this, but that would be a good plan for another trip. All the streets and many of the buildings and the wall were made of hard regional limestone. The streets were polished smooth from centuries of foot traffic. We toured an old government building, a Dominican Monastery and its museum, saw art influenced by the Renaissance, and had some free time to wander through the quaint, narrow side streets and shops.

Next, we were driven to a smaller community south of Dubrovnik and had a chance to stroll through pretty residential neighborhoods and along the sea. After that, we were taken up into the mountains to visit a farm. Farms are family operations, with related couples, their parents, and children living together in buildings that combine homes and working areas. They gave us a brief tour of some of the work areas and showed us how olives are pressed to make oil. Some of the Croatian olive oils evidently rival or surpass the best of those from Italy and Greece. We were treated to a taste of their homemade brandy and dried figs, then a meal of locally inspired sausage, potato salad and lettuce plus apple strudel. Meanwhile, two of the men played accordion and guitar for us, sang, and invited all of us to sing along. It was delightful.

Back on ship, we rested a bit and then considered attending the evening show, which featured a hammer dulcimer virtuoso. Frankly, this didn’t appeal to me, but Kathie reminded me that these shows are often/usually terrific and much more fun than one might assume. She was right. The musician was a Chinese gentleman who had been taught the instrument by his father beginning at age six. His technique, the variety of music (jazz, Chinese, classical, folk, show tunes), and the quality of the instrument kept everyone fascinated. He more than deserved the standing ovation he received. Betsy, you can tell Henry that he closed with “The William Tell Overture.”

Our dinner companions (we have an assigned table with two other couples) are becoming good friends. We are telling more and more stories and are laughing almost constantly. Kathie and I are thinking of challenging them to join us in a karaoke contest. Maybe we can all do “Stop in the Name of Love” complete with hand motions and a little choreography! I know—you are wondering where Bill is and what we’ve done with him. In fact, we continue to meet fun and interesting couples at all of the meals and events.

We lost an hour of time as we moved into a different time zone overnight. The ship will dock in Katakolon, Greece in about three hours, and we will be touring the site of the original Olympics. Right now, we are heading southeast along the western Greek coast. Still lots of sunshine and temperatures in the high sixties!

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