Old, New

Here is the old--a Lexus IS250 that Kathie bought in about April of 2006.

Here is the new, which she picked up two days ago--a Lexus HS250h.

It is a hybrid and, so far, is living up to and exceeding the mpg claims. These claims are 35 mpg city and 34 mpg highway. On the way home from the dealership, she got more than 40 mpg. It has an ECO (ecology) mode that attempts to make extra use of the electric motor. This seems to work well on the highway. For more typical driving responsiveness and acceleration, you can put it in PWR mode instead, but so far, Kathie hasn't felt she needs to use that too much.

The IS250 was a nice sporty car, but this new one has more room for passengers in both the front and back--I especially like this. It came nicely equipped with a navigation system, a system comparable to OnStar (though Lexus has a different name for it), a nice audio system with XM capability, and a bunch of extra safety features, including lane keep assist (beeps at you and resists turns if you move too close to lane markers--it really works!), radar-assisted speed control (keeps you from getting too close to a vehicle you are following), and some collision protection features.

P.S. I like it because it matches my pickup in color.

Trapani and Naples

This final posting will have to be a short one, as we have to pack and prepare to disembark the ship tomorrow morning.

Yesterday, we were on the northwest coast of Sicily in a town called Trapani. We scheduled no tour for the day and elected instead to simply roam through the city. Trapani is a relatively small, clean community that sits at the tip of a peninsula. No ship as big as our Ms Eurodam had ever docked at the port before. Usually, cruise ships anchor outside the port area and then passengers are tendered into town. So, we got lots and lots of public attention. Many locals came out to see the big ship, especially the maneuvering that was required to put such a big ship into a relatively small port. We enjoyed walking on pleasant streets, shopping, and having a coffee. We found a nice ceramic hot plate for our kitchen and a small green onyx bowl for Kathie to keep her teabags in. We also picked up some snacks at an outdoor market--proscuito, olives, sardines, and cheese. Our Australian friends had invited us to have a bottle of wine with them in the late afternoon, and we thought these snacks would be a nice addition (they were). The four of us enjoyed these things while we watched our ship find its way out of the harbor.

Today, we were anchored in Naples. Our tour for the day was to Sorrento and Pompeii. The drive along the coast was gorgeous. We could see the isle of Capri in the distance, for example. In Sorrento, we visited a woodworking shop that specialized in inlay work. I loved seeing all of this. Kathie found a small table that we are having shipped to us to use in our living room. It has beautiful flowered inlay on its top and the top opens to play a music box tune. Then we wondered through the village shops and found some candy and a couple of last-minute "grandkid gifts." Lunch was provided at a very pleasant local restaurant.

The afternoon was spent touring the ruins of Pompeii and keeping an eye on Mount Vesuvius in the distance. Quite an interesting story, of course, and much more interesting now that we have seen the rather extensive city that was Pompeii.

It has been a great trip. So much seen and experienced. New friends too. A last somewhat festive night on the ship tonight, then we stay in Rome tomorrow night, and fly home on Monday. Thanks for reading, everyone.

At Sea and Then Tunisia

The day after Palma de Mallorca was spent at sea as we traveled southeast to Tunisia. Days at sea are nice, because they help to slow the pace and provide a chance for further relaxation. Watching the sea is always fascinating—a little like watching a campfire, I think—the shape always changes, there are the occasional other ships in the distance, and birds can sometimes be seen, even far out to sea. We spent a fun couple of hours in the Crow’s Nest lounge, which is on the highest deck of the ship and which has a 180º forward view. Our new friends Murray and Margaret from Australia played cards with us. We taught them to play “I Doubt It”, which turned out to be a laugh riot. Later, Kathie and I enjoyed a little time in the casino, where I succeeded again in hitting my favorite number (31) on the roulette wheel a couple of times.

Yesterday, we arrived in the port of La Goulette, very near to the city of Tunis. Let me say before I describe our day, that Tunisia is not a country that was on my radar screen of places to consider visiting during my lifetime. This is only because my attention has always been drawn elsewhere. So, the fact that HAL included Tunisia in the itinerary for this 20-day Mediterranean adventure was pure serendipity, and what a fascinating visit it was! Our first contact with the continent of Africa, Tunisia is only about 100 miles from Sicily across the sea.

Shortly after we docked and all the lines were tied off and while most passengers were still rising and dressing for the day, we began to hear a rhythmic pounding noise, which I first thought to be a construction site sound. However, when I looked down from our verandah, I discovered several amazing Tunisian groups on the dock working to welcome us. There were four or five dromedaries (one hump, not two like camels have) and riders in colorful desert garb riding back and forth. A four-person group was playing music, including a rather loud drum (the sound we heard) and a couple of instruments rather like bagpipes but with very different sounds, while a woman dressed in bright green danced. At the far end of the dock, a small marching band, with brass and drums, all dressed in bright red, was completing a march past the ship, while playing and drawing passengers to disembark for the day.

Tunisia turns out to be an increasingly attractive port for cruise ships. It now ranks 7^th in the Mediterranean and 17^th internationally. Tourism is a major revenue source for the country, and its agricultural output is supposedly quite significant (olive, olive oil, dates, etc.). We were told that their president is well liked and that he has led many beneficial reforms in education, health care, and communications in the country. He was evidently originally a computer scientist and engineer. That explains a lot! He promoted a subsidization of computers and broadband Internet into virtually all homes.

The land was originally held by African Berbers, but it has been invaded and held numerous times by Vandals, Romans, Greeks, French, Turks, and Arabs. Christianity once flourished throughout northern Africa, but Islamic invaders eventually turned the various countries, including Tunisia, to Islam. Very small Christian communities are still present, but today, the evidence of Islam is everywhere, with minarets and mosques visible throughout the various cities we visited—many of them are beautiful structures. At the same time, the reforms in Tunisia seem to have given women a more equal footing than what I understand to exist in other Moslem nations. Women may wear head coverings or not, as they choose, and we saw a full range of older style, newer style, and no head coverings for women moving about. Women have the right to vote, and we were told that there is essentially an equal pay for equal work expectation. Also, government and religion are separated. There are six political parties.

Our first stop on our tour was to the Bardo Museum. Hundreds of mosaics have been discovered in Tunisia, many from the period of Roman domination, but there are others from other periods as well. Our guide indicated that they are finding so many that they do not know what to do with them all. The Bardo is being doubled in size to accommodate a larger collection and many more are in storage. Still others have been donated to museums and collections in other cities. We did indeed see a number of amazing pieces, some quite large, others quite detailed. Their scenes provide important historical context. Also in the collection are numerous statues and items of jewelry. The building that is the Bardo museum is interesting in its own right. Ceilings of some domes are covered with the most intricate carved stucco or plaster.

Next, we visited the Medina within Tunis. The word medina means city, but this Medina is a UNESCO world heritage site filled with a maze of tiny streets and souks (markets). Mosques, minarets, and colorful government buildings are near or within the Medina. A carpet shop demonstrated rug making and presented a number of its carpets. We think we like our Turkish carpet better, but the Tunisian ones have some distinctions, especially from Berber influences. Perfumes, hats, engraved copper plates and other items are available, and the vendors in the souks are very, very aggressive in trying to get you to buy something, anything.

We drove from the Medina out to Carthage, which is now essentially a suburb of Tunis. There we were treated to a buffet lunch. Nearby, we saw remains of a Roman aquaduct that had once carried water from the Atlas Mountains some 80 or more miles to Carthage, the original stronghold of the Carthaginians prior to their overthrow by the Romans. Later we drove past other Roman ruins, including an amphitheater, and then we were given a guided tour through the ruins of what had once been a magnificent Roman bath. There, our guide also took some time to explain the progression of Punic wars, including Hannibal’s efforts to defeat Rome from the north after crossing northern Africa, using barges to cross the ten miles of the Mediterranean near Gibraltar, and then proceeding east across lower Europe, crossing the Pyrenees and the Alps with his men and his elephants. Though nearly successful, eventually, Hannibal was driven back to Carthage.

Near Carthage is a small village of about 3,500 people called Sidi Bou Said. This mostly blue and white picturesque village sits atop a hill and has become a major tourist destination, though aside from its charm is mostly a set of souvenir shops.

The complete surprise to me of the entire day was our guide’s decision to stop at the North African American Cemetery near Carthage. Almost no other tour buses did this detour, so we were pleased that our guide understood how this might be of interest to the majority of us who were U.S. citizens. He had been explaining the impact of the 2^nd World War in the region and on Tunis and Tunisia and mentioned that 7,000 U.S. soldiers were buried nearby in the only U.S. cemetery maintained in Africa. These would have been soldiers involved in defeating Rommel’s German Afrika Korps. I was stunned by the beauty of the site and the rows upon rows of white crosses or stars of David. It was a beautifully maintained facility with a pretty stone wall surrounding it, perfect green grass and gardens, memorials, and administrative buildings with a small contingent of personnel monitoring the grounds. I was moved to tears by the opportunity to pay my respects to men the age of our fathers who fought here in what was probably the last “good war” in which the U.S. has been engaged.

The entire day was completely fascinating—a new and unexpected country; first time in Africa; impressive people, culture and geography; additional introduction to the vast spread of antiquities throughout the Mediterranean and beyond; and an opportunity to pay regard to those in this honored American cemetery.

Palma de Mallorca

Our trip from Valencia to Palma de Mallorca overnight was fun. The captain had advised us that there would be a gale force wind (about 30 knots) astern and that we should plan to be sure footed if we were up and about. We were in our cabin when the ship left port at about 10PM and were headed to bed soon after. As soon as we passed the breakwater that guarded the port, we could begin to feel the sea. During the night, we rocked and rolled back and forth. It was actually quite pleasant, but I think both of us agree that it was the roughest sea we have experienced in the four cruises we have done. Maybe the North Sea a few years ago was stronger, although it is hard to remember now. Notable this time is the fact that this very big ship, which is very stable overall, still had to submit to the sea’s whims.

I don’t have a story to share about Palma de Mallorca, the large island to the southeast of Valencia that is one of the islands belonging to Spain. We chose to spend the day aboard ship to rest and relax. Views from our cabin verandah suggest that this port city may be quite pleasant. Mallorca is a significant vacation destination, and the number of sailing vessels and yachts in the harbor supported that notion.

We spend the next day at sea, taking two days to reach our next port of call in Tunisia on the North African coast. Oh—Kathie wants everyone to know that she won the trivia challenge in Palma de Mallorca, successfully completing the quiz on world explorers. She won a HAL lapel pin, which she intends to affix to one of her caps.

Valencia

Spain receives another vote from us for delightful places to experience and, perhaps, to visit again in the future in more depth. The day was rainy and cool, so touring wasn’t quite as much fun as it might have been, but we were intrigued by what we saw, especially in the city.

On the drive into the center of Valencia, we paralleled a very modern new promenade that is situated on a long stretch of diverted riverbed. It features a new bridge, museum, performing arts center, IMAX 3D facility and other structures designed by architect Santiago Calatrava. All of these utilize graceful arches and repetitive elements.

A short walking tour through the central portion of Valencia introduced us to its Plaza del Mercado, which includes an amazing trading hall where we saw a vast array of fruit, vegetable, seafood, and meat shops. Such color! We also saw the Lonja de la Seda (silk exchange) and the Valencia Cathedral.

The next part of our tour was a visit to the Caves of St. Joseph. To get there, we drove about 45 minutes near the coast toward the northeast. I expect everyone knows of Valencia oranges. Valencia has always been associated with oranges and is considered the home of sweet oranges and new varieties derived from grafting techniques, including clementines, tangerines, and others. The countryside was loaded with orange groves, as well as other garden crops.

The Caves of St. Joseph follow the course of an underground river. We toured the caves mostly via boat, though there was a short segment through which we walked. I’m sorry to say that though this is the only cave I’ve ever toured in this way, overall the cave was underwhelming. We have seen so many magnificent caves in the US, including Jewel Cave and Carlsbad, that these were simply too plain, except for the water running through. Nevertheless, the trip got us out away from Valencia to see a good part of the region.

Barcelona

This city gets very, very high marks from us. We had not chosen one of the packaged excursions for this port of call, thinking instead that we would simply wander the city. We were more leisurely in getting the day started and enjoyed the view of Barcelona from the dining room while we explored the city map and came up with a plan for at least a starting point. At the center of the city is a medieval part called the Barri Gotic, which dates back to the twelfth century and is filled with narrow stone streets and many fascinating old buildings. The city is also home to many significant museums, parks, plazas, promenades, and important pieces of architecture.

We decided to start with the Picasso Museum in the Barri Gotic, to take a taxi there, and then to wander from that point through this old town and to other areas as things attracted our attention. One thing that impressed us right away was how clean and lively the city seemed to be. It was Sunday, and Barcelona residents were out in their city simply having a good time, enjoying the sunshine, the clear air, balloons and street vendors, museums, parks, and street musicians. We had experienced Rome on a Sunday years ago, when they closed selected streets there to provide the residents with a citywide park-like atmosphere. Both that experience and this one in Barcelona were delightful.

Unfortunately, there was so much enthusiasm for being out and about that our plans for the Picasso Museum were the same plans that hundreds of others had. We waited in a long line for quite awhile but were told we would likely not enter for at least an hour. So, we reluctantly abandoned that part of the plan and proceeded with our stroll. Barcelona is almost a museum in itself, since it is filled with marvelous buildings and structures, both new and very old. We stopped to enjoy a small orchestra and dancers. As we continued, we came almost immediately upon a band (brass and drums) in uniforms and accompanied by banner bearers and a contingent of elderly ladies dressed in elaborate black dresses with fancy headpieces and another group dressed in long colorful dresses. They all marched very slowly, stepping almost side-to-side as they proceeded. It reminded us at first of a New Orleans jazz funeral march, though even more sober. We could not decipher the Spanish wording on the banners, but this was certainly a Catholic Christian observance, perhaps in honor of the Virgin Mary.

Prior to arriving in Barcelona, others had told us to watch for the city’s many instances of avant garde architecture by Antonio Gaudi. So, we set out to find a few of these structures, the most spectacular of which is the Catedral de la Sagrada Familia, the spires of which we had seen from our ship. Before we got to it, however, we found other instances, including the Calvert, Ametlier, Batlio, and Ferrades houses. Much of Gaudi’s work is protected by the UN World Trust. He used recycled materials and featured some brightly colored mosaic surfaces in areas of the structures. The Catedral is impossible to describe. You might see if you can find a picture of it via Google, or you can wait until we get home. Gaudi started it in 1882, and it was not finished when he died in 1926. It appears not to be finished even today, as there were cranes all around it and obvious construction still taking place. Nevertheless, it is extraordinary in the truest sense of the word.

Barcelona rates as one of our favorite destinations ever, and we would certainly love to visit again and to have more time to see its many museums and regional attractions.

Monaco

You would think that if Monaco was to be one of our ports of call, we would get to visit Monaco. However, given that May 1 is a holiday in Monaco and given, furthermore, that the Monaco Grand Prix began on May 1, we were advised to stay away from at least the Monte Carlo area of Monaco. Fortunately, we had already scheduled an excursion to Nice and Eze along the Riviera, and though we had thought we might conclude the day with an hour or two walk into Monaco, it ended up being OK with us only to view the principality from a distance.

There are three road that follow the coast from Monaco to the west toward Nice. They are collectively referred to as the three Cornishes. One is the lower Cornishe, which is relatively close to the sea, the second is about halfway up the cliffs, and the third follows the crest of the cliffs. Our tour bus took us along the lower Cornish to Nice. Along the way, there were continuous impressive views of the bays, coastlines, yachts, villages, and many expensive homes in the area. Of course, the Riviera is a major tourism and resort area and draws lots of the rich and famous, and it truly is a beautiful geographic region. In Nice, we were given time to visit the flower and produce market that operates there all days except Sunday. The market was probably three football fields long, with the first third devoted to flowers and plants of all kinds, the middle third devoted mostly to fruits, and the final third devoted to vegetables. Sprinkled throughout were miscellaneous fresh seafood stands, fresh spice markets, mushroom markets, and some finished goods, like personal products (crèmes, soaps, etc.), embroidered linens, and other such things. We came away with a carton of the sweetest fresh strawberries and an assortment of excellent dried fruits (figs, dates, peaches, and apricots)—snacks for onboard the ship.

Eze sits well above the sea, and we reached it on our return trip via the second or middle Cornishe. In Eze, there are two extraordinary hotels with amazing views. Indeed, for one of them, they use donkeys to carry the luggage to the rooms, which are distinct buildings from the lobby and restaurant area. Eze is also home to at least two perfumeries, since the city is close to the sources for various French fragrances.

As we traveled along these two roads to and from Nice, our guide pointed out homes that were owned or were at one time owned by persons such as Elton John, King Farouk of Egypt, Sophia Loren, and others. Paul Allen (Microsoft) has a home there, which is not easily seen since it can only be reached by helicopter or boat—this is where Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt hid out when they were waiting for the birth of their twins. We also saw a yacht belonging to the finance minister of Saudi Arabia, and numerous other magnificent yachts and homes. Though not owned by anyone particularly famous, we did see the home that is said to be the most expensive home in the world. It sits on a very high promontory well above the sea and requires 50 full-time gardeners to maintain the grounds. It has been available for sale at an asking price of 500 million euros (about 700 million dollars). A wealthy Russian made an offer some years ago and put down nearly 200 million as a deposit. Then the world economy turned sour and he had to withdraw, thus losing his deposit, which the owner donated to charity. The place was gorgeous, but 500 million euros???

Shortly before we arrived back in Monaco, we saw a sports arena that belongs to the principality. It comprises a full soccer arena with seating that must rival many of our college stadiums. Below it is a swimming facility, a wrestling arena, and a 2000 car parking facility. The guide said that the people in Monaco (only 32,000 residents) really know how to dig down, since they have so little land (one and one-half square miles total). Though we had been discouraged from walking into Monte Carlo or other parts of Monaco, our guide and driver did find a convenient place for us to stop at a high point so that we could look down at the whole of the area. We could see the royal palace, where Grace Kelley once lived as Princess with Prince Ranier, the cathedral where she is entombed, and several government buildings. To the east from there was Monte Carlo, the name given to the resort within the principality that houses the famous casino, luxury hotels, and other venues. To our surprise, we could see one of the Grand Prix races in progress—we were told it was an early race involving vintage cars. There was a huge large screen TV in the midst of the race area that showed the cars at strategic points along the course, which is just as set of blocked off streets within Monte Carlo. The roar of the engines, even where we were, was amazing.

Another sign of the rich and famous was the number of beautiful, expensive cars we saw. As our bus made its way to Nice, we thought at a reasonable speed, a bright yellow Ferrari roared past us as we neared a curve. This was not a pass I would have thought safe, but risky, high performance driving is a big deal here.

Civitavecchia and Livorno

Two days ago we finished the first half of our cruise, arriving back at our starting point, Civitavecchia, Italy. During the morning hours, many people disembarked, including some who had been onboard with us for this 10-day eastern Mediterranean cruise and others who had been onboard for 26 days (crossing from Ft. Lauderdale, FL to Italy, and then doing the 10-day part). Then in the afternoon, new passengers embarked. So, we have a slightly different mix of people these next ten days. We spent nearly all of the day in Civitavecchia loafing, reading, and enjoying the sun on deck. Late that afternoon, the 10-day western Mediterranean portion of our cruise began with the ship sailing to Livorno, Italy overnight.

So yesterday, we awoke in Livorno, which is not far from Pisa and Florence and other interesting parts of Tuscany. Because our good friends David and Donna had treated us to such an excellent adventure in Florence four years ago, we decided to do our excursion north along the coast to the area called Cinque Terre. Though we have never been to Pisa, we actually did see the famed leaning tower of Pisa in the distance as our bus traveled north. It is crooked! They could straighten it, but that would stop the tourist dollars from flowing.

Cinque Terre is now an Italian National Park and is also a World Heritage Site, as recognized by UNESCO. Cinque Terre literally means five lands or five villages. They are all within about six miles of each other and sit right on the coast, mostly at the foot of high cliffs. The sea in front of the villages is also protected. La Spezia to the southeast and then Cinque Terre mark the beginning of the Italian portion of the Riviera, which continues westward along the coast through the remainder of northwestern Italy, through Monaco and into France.

To say that Cinque Terre is picturesque is a big understatement. The villages were once reachable only by foot or by sea. Today, a train runs through the villages, though it is mostly in tunnels and under the villages. A road reaches one of the villages for buses and other vehicles, but from there the roads into the villages are exceedingly narrow and are only used in limited ways. A ferryboat system operates between the villages and La Spezia.

The people in Cinque Terre are very proud of their isolated existence. Their language is a dialect of Italian. They are said to be very healthy because of their diet, which consists of lots of vegetables and seafood. Grape vines grow on terraces that they have cut into every available, usable piece of the cliffs. There are thought to be around 4,000 miles of terraces along these cliffs around and above the five villages—a length exceeding that of the Great Wall of China.

In order from southeast to northwest, the villages are Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso. The bus dropped us in Manarola, and we walked down into the village to spend some time noodling around the shops and admiring the clustered buildings and seascapes. Next we walked along Via dell’Amore (Lover’s Lane), a walkway well above but alongside the sea to Riomaggiore. There are some steel nets that have been placed over some of the cliff faces to stop falling rock from hurting anyone. On these nets and other metal fences and railings along the path, lovers have fastened padlocks to the net or fence or railing and then thrown the key into the sea to bind their love forever. The guide asked us to watch for combination padlocks (we saw a few) and to contemplate what that might mean about commitment!

From Riomaggiore, we took the ferry to Vernazza, where we were given two hours of free time to explore the shops and have lunch. Kathie and I found an excellent café overlooking the sea, where we were able to sit outside. Because the region is known for its seafood, pastas, and pesto sauces, we had a seafood sampler, spaghetti with clams, and a local pasta with the pesto sauce. Red wine to go with that, naturally. The seafood sampler consisted of both hot and cold items: anchovies fixed two different ways, calamari (squid), tuna and octopus. Excellent!

We took the train back to La Spieza were our bus waited for us and then drove back to our ship. It was a long day for us and a little tiring, but it was lovely.